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Belgrad Hotel    J    +7 (095) 248-1643        www.hotel-belgrad.ru 

Street Address: Smolenskaya Street, 8 - Moscow, Russia

Photo: Belgrad Hotel - Moscow, Russia

Location: Very Good

Nearest Metro:

Staff Speaks English? Yes.

Would I Stay Here? Yes.

* Renovated Rooms Are Nice. Close To Arbat Street. Good Value *

I'm a little bit excited about the Belgrad because this was the first hotel I stayed at in Moscow and they seem to be doing a pretty good job of renovating this substantial hotel. The hotel has 600 rooms altogether, but only 235 are available right now. I was quite surprised to see their brand new lobby and really nice brand new Otis elevators. They still have old rooms at cheap prices. These are basic, plain, but clean, no-frills rooms. More exciting to me are their brand new, air conditioned floors. These new rooms are brand new and really nice with beautiful new bathrooms. The renovated rooms are on the top floors (19 story building) and the rooms have interesting city views, although the glass was filthy during my March 21, 2004 visit. The best views feature the nearby Gothic Stalin building. I liked the king-sized luxury suite the most.

Security is thorough. Security guys will check you out before you get on an elevator. Then you need a card key to get access to the newer floors.

There is a nice restaurant on the third floor and a small bar/hang-out area is in the lobby, but the atmosphere is the opposite of cozy. Room rates are $65 to $250. Get a renovated room and you won't be disappointed.

A veteran traveller to Moscow wrote this after I had commented that I thought it was a good value:

"Glad to hear it on the Belgrad. When I stayed there 10 years ago, in a single, my toilet belched sewage, and I found myself eating dinner next to swarthy guys with shoulder holsters, and the waitress advising me (I spoke Russian, so the wait staff liked me) that maybe it would be good if I took off before the local killers and gangsters got too drunk. Apparently, things have improved dramatically :) "

The veteran traveller then stayed at the Belgrad in September 2004 and here is what he had to say this time:

The renovated rooms are very nice *to look at*, but  in the end the Belgrad is still a Soviet style hotel. Security, with a double-key system that requires a room key just to get on the renovated floors, is nice, but the lobby is still basically a bunch of dodgy-looking folks clustered around here and there. The desk staff are moderately polite, but not particularly helpful. There is no room service, and even asking for spare towels is an adventure. (We asked three times and never got them. Replenishing the toilet paper took two calls and an hour.)

My favorite moment was going to the bar to ask for some ice. "None," I was told. "It's a *bar*," I said (in Russian). The bartender shrugged, the front desk shrugged, and so I went to the restaurant, tipped a nice lady some rubles, and got a bag of ice. Welcome back to the USSR, comrades.

Amenities, such as hair dryers, mini-bars, and CNN do not exist. Other "amenities" have their own downside. For example, local calls are free -- but you cannot call other parts of Russia (or so I was told.) The worst feature in the room was water temperature in the shower: it cycled from cold to scalding, pretty much no matter where you had it set. So to take a shower, you have to do the "Belgrad Two-Step:" step in when it's warm, step out when it's too hot or too cold. It's like doing the Hokey-Pokey in the shower. A real pain. We were there during a warm streak in September; the air conditioning didn't work. When I complained about it, they switched it over to a heating unit. Oy.

The breakfast buffet is only 8 bucks, but there's a reason: it's basically a tiny assortment of cold cuts, hard boiled eggs, and cereal. An especially nice touch are the arty pictures of naked women in the restaurant, including the one on all fours right over the buffet. If you're bringing your kids, cover their eyes.

Another nice Soviet touch: No rooms, even when there are rooms. A Russian friend came to visit, and we called from a local restaurant to arrange an unrenovated room for him (a bargain at 65 bucks). "None!" we were told. We walked around the corner to the hotel, walked up to the front desk, I told the young lady my colleague needed a room. "Plenty! What would he like?" Sheesh.

In sum, if you're an adult willing to do without any amenities, want a nice, clean, very comfortable renovated room right on the Arbat with commanding 19th floor views of Moscow, the Belgrad can be a pretty good deal. But if you don't speak Russian, and need a bit of service or a touch of luxury -- like, say, a bucket of ice --now and then, forget it.

PS: I want to point out that for people roughing it, the Belgrad's unrenovated rooms are the best deal in Moscow. They're comfortable enough, especially if all you want to do is sleep there.

 

Submitted March 12, 2005 from a former Belgrad Hotel guest:

We stayed in the Belgrad Hotel last July for week. We felt safe and secure
and loved the location. The Smolenskaya metro stop and others (can't
remember all the names) were close by, Arbat Passage was walking distance,
there were restaurants and shopping close by. The staff shouldn't be in the
hospitality business, however. They were rude, not very caring and generally
miserable. I also suspect that one or two were either incompetent or
outright liars. When our lost luggage turned up from our carrier, we were
told that they were not there. We had to insist before someone took us to
our suitcases.

The restaurant staff was very nice and the food was okay but we were
surprised at how ripped off we got on a cup of coffee - we thought some of
the menu prices were a bit high by local, even hotel, standards.

Our room had a great view, but the room next door was being renovated and at
times our room got a lot of noise. (We must attract that because in Budapest
the same thing happened to us : ) Our room was small, but it was fine
overall. We weren't in it much.

All said, the rates were decent and we liked the location. It was easy for
us to hop on the metro to get anywhere and it was a vibrant area in the
evening.

We got used to the neighborhood. It kind of grew on us. On a later trip our
needs were different, so we stayed at the Marriott Grand. The hotel is nice,
the staff is helpful and nice, the room was spacious, everything was clean -
it was a Marriott. There isn't really anything bad to say about it. The
neighborhood didn't have the heart of the Belgrad Hotel's neighborhood
though.

We would return to either. The hotel Golden Ring, across the street from the
Belgrad, looked like a decent place to stay also. There were a lot of
business people there in the daytime. We strolled in once or twice.

Submitted May 23, 2005 by a former guest of the Belgrad Hotel

Subject: belgrade hotel - what a nightmare
To:  
Hi,
 
We stayed in the belgrad hotel in March 2005 and i am telling you we will not stay there another time. It might have been our fault cause we took an unrenovated room. First of all it was dark, old and cold. The windows were taped up so as not to allow the cold wind to blow into the room. The heating barely made any difference. Apart from that the staff are extremely rude to foreigners. Let me tell you once they see you are a foreigner they try to rip you off in any way they can. They made us pay a fine which we later were told we should not have paid.

We were made to pay twice for passport registration on the same day as we were too naive to ask for a receipt the first time. Moreover we were told that breakfast was $15 each in the evening and then in the morning when we went to pay we were charged $25 each and let me tell you the supposed all you can eat buffet left a lot to be desired. Apart from that we were woken up by loud amorous sounds (to put it mildly) coming from the adjacent room which penetrated the thin walls that separated the rooms. Run run run far far far away from the belgrad hotel is all i can tell you.


Mon, 15 Aug 2005 01:31:05 EDT

My husband and I stayed, not by choice, but as a convenience to relatives, in one of the new tourist rooms last July.  I would stay there again if I had to, but since so many Russians can be so sweet when you get to know them, the outright rudeness of much of the lobby staff can be galling.  I'm a Jersey Girl, so I can hold my own.  We got the "Nyet!" treatment for breakfast, too.  I saw the girl at the desk talk my husband into the $8.00 advance pay breakfast (last year) that became over $10.00 when the charge did not go thru our credit card and the dominatrix at the buffet virtually accused me of fraud as I said we paid for the breakfast buffet in advance.  I gave her a big ruble bill on purpose that sent her into a hissy to find all the change she had to give me.  It was all there, to her credit.  My husband thinks it's some con to get more money for breakfast, but why offer the deal in the first place and then not honor it?  I think it's incompetence.
 
The guy selling drinks at the tiny bar in the lobby is a con, too.  He charged us double twice, until we got wise to him, then we got our water and soda from outside shops.
 
To answer about service, like towels, don't ask the front desk.  I wrote in some pretty bad Russian, I bet, "Housekeeper, 4 bath towels, please?  Thank you." on a doily, and left 100 rubles.  It worked.  I tipped everyday as the new tourist room was so clean.  The maids did a great job!  I did the wet paper towel on the bathroom floor trick.  In the USA, it probably comes back gray from dirt.  In Germany and that room, it came up white.  That's a good sign.  And, that's the second reason I would go back, the other is because the location at the foot of the Arbat is across the street!
 
Thank goodness we did not have to ask for any extra services.  They would hang you out to dry.  Other friends arrived about 5am and despite the request for a room at that time by Russian residents (we all were visiting), pay, and despite assurances by the hotel, none were available.
 
Also, the keycard and security sales pitch aside, our security guard reminded me of "Kilroy is here" with the way he tried to stare us down from behind plants and glass dividers at the lobby desk.  Yet, two nights I awoke with my purse opened all the way!  Nothing was taken, but, who knows what info one could get from a passport and wallet.  After that, everything was directly under me as I slept.  My husband would not let me put anything in the safe.  I truly get the feeling we were spied on.  There's no deadbolt on the door like in other hotels around the world.  Am I to trust "Kilroy" to protect me?  Maybe I am just wrong and paranoid.  But, I was behind the Iron Curtain only ten years after it was pulled back a bit, and we have to remember old habits die hard.
 
So, overall, I think this hotel hindered our Moscow (Mos-coe) experience, but we were tough and weathered the storm.  I would not stay there if our friends were not living around the corner.  The room was extremely clean, and small, but our view was amazing.  The neighborhood is cool, and the Metro is really close.  Housekeeping did well by us by cleaning the room extremely well every day, but the ladies as the front desk have no clue as to being kind to the customers.  They appeared to like to revert to Russian from English, and I cannot blame them, but "come on!"  It's better to be kind, than never to have been kind before.


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